Introduction
Ludovic de Saint Sernin has become one of the most talked-about names in contemporary fashion. The French designer, who launched his eponymous label in 2017, has built a reputation for clothing that is unapologetically sensual, gender-fluid, and rooted in queer identity. His signature lace-up eyelet brief, first made in leather, has evolved into a defining garment of the brand and reportedly accounts for nearly 40 percent of its sales.
In recent years, de Saint Sernin has expanded far beyond his own label, taking on a guest couture collection for Jean Paul Gaultier, serving a brief tenure as creative director of Ann Demeulemeester, and launching high-profile collaborations with Zara and Skims. This article explores his career trajectory, design philosophy, landmark collections, and the collaborations that have cemented his place in the fashion industry.
Who Is Ludovic de Saint Sernin?
Ludovic de Saint Sernin was born in Brussels and grew up on the Ivory Coast before moving to Paris at the age of seven. He studied fashion design at the prestigious École Duperré in Paris, where he focused on womenswear. During his studies, he interned at Dior and Saint Laurent before joining Balmain as an embellishment expert, where he worked for two years. Speaking to AnOther about his time at Balmain, he said, “I can’t tell you how many eyelets I’ve sewn into garments”.
In 2017, de Saint Sernin launched his namesake label, presenting his debut collection during Paris Fashion Week. The brand quickly gained attention for its exploration of sex and sexuality through clothing, drawing inspiration from artists like Robert Mapplethorpe and the New York S&M scene of the 1970s and 1980s. Within two seasons, the label was nominated for the 2018 LVMH Prize.
Career Timeline
| Year | Milestone |
|---|---|
| 2017 | Launches eponymous label during Paris Fashion Week |
| 2018 | Nominated for LVMH Prize; wins ANDAM Creative Label Prize |
| 2019 | Joins BoF 500 |
| 2020 | Accepted onto the official Paris Men’s Fashion Week calendar |
| Dec 2022 | Appointed creative director of Ann Demeulemeester |
| May 2023 | Departs Ann Demeulemeester after one season |
| Jan 2025 | Guest designs Jean Paul Gaultier Spring 2025 Haute Couture |
| Nov 2025 | Ludovic de Saint Sernin x Zara collection launches |
| Oct 2026 | Skims x Ludovic de Saint Sernin capsule released |
Sources: BoF 500, Fashion Network, WWD
The Ludovic de Saint Sernin Aesthetic
De Saint Sernin’s design language is built on a tension between seduction and restraint. His collections feature cropped leather tank tops, lavender and pink tailoring, and leather lace-up trousers, with elements of 1970s and 1980s New York S&M culture woven throughout. The brand’s sexiness, as noted by the Business of Fashion, relies on a careful game of “Tom Ford-at-Gucci-era hide-and-seek,” balancing how much to reveal and how much to conceal.
While the label began as menswear, each collection has always been designed to be worn by women as well. This gender-fluid approach has made de Saint Sernin a go-to designer for performers and style risk-takers across the spectrum. In a 2026 interview with Cultured Magazine, he described his contribution to culture as “encouraging people who look at and wear my clothes to reconsider what they allow themselves to represent,” adding that his work makes visible “a sexiness, a queerness, a boldness, but all refined and precise”.
Signature Pieces
The eyelet brief remains the defining garment of the brand. First introduced in leather, it has since been reinterpreted in leopard print, sparkling rhinestones, and even hand-crocheted wool. Other recurring elements include:
- Crystal chainmail dresses – seen on red carpets worn by Anya Taylor-Joy and Tate McRae
- Lace-up leather trousers – a recurring runway staple with corset lacing instead of a front zipper
- Sheer fabrications – including mesh corsets and feather-light bras
Breakthrough Collections and Runway Moments
Fall 2024: New York and the Mapplethorpe Collaboration
De Saint Sernin brought his Fall 2024 show to New York Fashion Week in collaboration with the Robert Mapplethorpe Foundation. The collection, filled with BDSM-inspired leatherwork and sheer floral dresses, introduced the designer to a broader American audience. The red-carpet impact was immediate: on Oscar night alone, Alex Consani wore the brand’s Pony dress to the ceremony, while Kylie Jenner wore a body-grazing burgundy chainmail dress printed with a silver Mapplethorpe floral to the Vanity Fair after-party.
Fall 2026: “Winter Bare”
For Fall 2026, de Saint Sernin stripped his collection back to sensual basics. WWD reported that the designer spent time sketching in isolation, resulting in a tightly controlled palette of black, white, and red. The collection expanded the Cleavage Bag family with a clutch and bucket version, and introduced the Harness Bag, which nods subtly to BDSM codes. Described by L’Officiel as “a reduced palette and sharpened silhouettes,” the collection marked a focused return to the designer’s core language.
Spring/Summer 2026: “The Reverie”
The Spring/Summer 2026 collection, titled “The Reverie,” was described as “rooted in quiet defiance” and featured Emma Chamberlain, Alexa Chung, and Sebastian Croft embodying what the brand called “the new nobility”.
High-Profile Collaborations
Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture
In January 2025, de Saint Sernin became the guest designer for Jean Paul Gaultier’s Spring 2025 Haute Couture collection, titled “Le Naufrage” (The Shipwreck). The collection featured mermaid skirts adorned with seafoam-green sequin waves, brown mesh corsets that reimagined Gaultier’s iconic conical bra, and a theatrical finale in which de Saint Sernin himself walked the runway in a total black bodysuit and heels. The AP described the collection as “steeped in his signature aesthetic of eroticism,” with work “rooted in queer identity and nightclub sensuality”. Charli XCX wore a piece from the collection to the 2025 Grammys just days after the runway show.
Ann Demeulemeester
In December 2022, de Saint Sernin was appointed creative director of Ann Demeulemeester. His debut collection for the Belgian label was described by WWD as “a love letter to Ann Demeulemeester” and was shown in Paris in March 2023. However, his tenure was brief — he departed after just one season, in May 2023, and was succeeded by Stefano Gallici. One of the most memorable moments from this period was Hunter Schafer wearing de Saint Sernin’s Feather Top for Ann Demeulemeester at the 2023 Vanity Fair Oscars Party — a look the designer himself has cited as a career highlight.
Zara
In November 2025, de Saint Sernin launched a highly anticipated collaboration with Zara. The collection — a year in the making — spanned women’s and men’s apparel, accessories, and beauty products, ranging from $25.90 to $1,399. The campaign, shot in New York, featured models of the moment Alex Consani and Amelia Gray. De Saint Sernin told Vogue that the Zara project offered him the chance to reach “a global scale” in contrast to the couture work he was doing simultaneously for Gaultier.
The collaboration was extended in 2026, with WWD reporting that the designer had created an expanded range that included beauty products such as a face mist and gua sha tool.
Skims
In September 2026, Kim Kardashian and de Saint Sernin announced Skims x Ludovic de Saint Sernin, a limited-edition capsule that combines Skims’ signature shapewear with the designer’s “hypersexy, lacy aesthetic”. The collaboration had deep personal roots: de Saint Sernin first met Kardashian when he was an intern at Balmain during her #BalmainArmy era. The collection, which released on October 1, 2026, drew from Kardashian’s personal archive of looks and ’90s supermodel style, featuring bodycon dresses, pencil skirts, and separates with sheer fabrications and intricate lace-up detailing.
Celebrity Dressing and Cultural Impact
De Saint Sernin has become a favourite among pop stars and actors seeking daring, body-conscious looks. Vogue dubbed him an “overnight celebrity favourite” in October 2024, and his roster of red-carpet clients has only grown.
Notable Celebrity Moments
| Celebrity | Occasion | Look |
|---|---|---|
| Kylie Jenner | 2024 Vanity Fair Oscar Party | Burgundy chainmail Mapplethorpe dress |
| Charli XCX | 2025 Grammys | Custom Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture by LdSS |
| Tate McRae | 2025 Vanity Fair Oscar Party | Liquid silver dress |
| Olivia Rodrigo | Jimmy Fallon appearance | Red minidress with metallic ring accents |
| Sabrina Carpenter | World tour | Custom two-piece sets |
| Dua Lipa | Multiple appearances | Longtime supporter of the brand |
| Hunter Schafer | 2023 Vanity Fair Oscar Party | Feather Top for Ann Demeulemeester |
Sources: WWD, Nylon, Vogue
In a 2024 interview with Vogue, de Saint Sernin explained his approach to celebrity dressing: “It is the most incredible and rewarding feeling when someone you love wears your brand on a major red carpet because they usually have access to so many options, so when you’re the chosen one it’s special”.
Design Philosophy and Industry Perspective
De Saint Sernin has been credited with bringing sex appeal and skin back to menswear, a space that had long been dominated by more conservative silhouettes. His work draws on personal experience as a queer designer, and he has spoken openly about the importance of visibility.
In his Cultured Magazine interview, he expressed concern about the fashion industry’s current focus: “When I first started there was a bit of a change in the air. People were craving newness and looking at young designers, but I feel like today big brands are becoming stronger again and we’re forgetting about the future generations and voices”. He identified the book Just Kids by Patti Smith as a formative influence, saying it “gave me purpose and gave me the courage to launch my own brand”.
The brand’s commercial footprint is modest but influential. De Saint Sernin has stated that the US — mainly New York and Los Angeles — is his biggest market, worth about 30 percent of revenue, and that 16 percent of his Instagram followers are located in the US.
Key Facts
| Category | Detail |
|---|---|
| Full Name | Ludovic de Saint Sernin |
| Born | Brussels, Belgium |
| Nationality | French |
| Education | École Duperré, Paris |
| Label Founded | 2017 |
| Signature Piece | Lace-up eyelet brief |
| Signature Garment Share of Sales | ~40% |
| Awards | ANDAM Creative Label Prize (2018); LVMH Prize Finalist (2018) |
| Notable Collaborations | Jean Paul Gaultier, Zara, Skims, Robert Mapplethorpe Foundation |
| Former Roles | Ann Demeulemeester Creative Director (Dec 2022–May 2023) |
Sources: BoF 500, LVMH Prize, Fashion Network
Expert Insights
De Saint Sernin occupies a unique position in contemporary fashion. He is simultaneously an independent label founder, a sought-after collaborator, and a cultural voice for queer visibility in design. His ability to move between the rarefied world of haute couture (Gaultier), the mass market (Zara), and celebrity dressing suggests a strategic versatility that is rare among independent designers.
The Zara collaboration, in particular, represents a significant shift. By partnering with the Spanish retailer, de Saint Sernin has been able to bring his aesthetic to a global audience at accessible price points while maintaining his independent label’s identity. As he told Vogue, “I want to be able to reach a bigger audience”. The Skims collaboration similarly leverages a mass-market platform to extend his brand’s reach, this time through the lens of body positivity and shapewear.
Looking ahead, de Saint Sernin’s challenge will be to maintain the creative integrity of his eponymous label while continuing to expand its commercial footprint. His Fall 2026 collection — with its stripped-back, sensual restraint — suggests he is conscious of this balance.
Read More: Prabal Gurung: The Designer Redefining American Fashion: Biography, Net Worth & Latest News
Frequently Asked Questions
What is Ludovic de Saint Sernin known for?
Ludovic de Saint Sernin is known for his sensual, gender-fluid designs that explore themes of sex, sexuality, and queer identity. His signature piece is the lace-up eyelet brief, which represents nearly 40 percent of his brand’s sales.
When did Ludovic de Saint Sernin launch his brand?
He launched his eponymous label in 2017, presenting his debut collection during Paris Fashion Week.
What collaborations has Ludovic de Saint Sernin done?
He has collaborated with Zara (2025, extended 2026), Skims (2026), and the Robert Mapplethorpe Foundation (Fall 2024). He also guest-designed Jean Paul Gaultier’s Spring 2025 Haute Couture collection.
Was Ludovic de Saint Sernin the creative director of Ann Demeulemeester?
Yes, he served as creative director of Ann Demeulemeester from December 2022 to May 2023, departing after one season.
Which celebrities wear Ludovic de Saint Sernin?
His designs have been worn by Kylie Jenner, Charli XCX, Dua Lipa, Tate McRae, Olivia Rodrigo, Sabrina Carpenter, Hunter Schafer, and Kim Kardashian, among others.
What is the eyelet brief?
The eyelet brief is de Saint Sernin’s signature garment — a lace-up style first made in leather that has become a defining piece of the brand. It has been reinterpreted in leopard print, rhinestones, and wool over the years.
Conclusion
Ludovic de Saint Sernin has built a fashion house on a clear and uncompromising vision: clothing that celebrates the body, explores queer identity, and refuses to shy away from sensuality. From his signature eyelet brief to his couture work for Jean Paul Gaultier, and from his high-profile collaborations with Zara and Skims to his brief but impactful tenure at Ann Demeulemeester, de Saint Sernin has consistently demonstrated an ability to move between worlds without losing his creative voice. As he continues to expand his brand’s reach while staying true to its core aesthetic, Ludovic de Saint Sernin remains one of the most compelling and culturally relevant designers working today.
